Installation of the new bowspirit and last spring fixes

To make it easier to embark Albatrossen Inger, we decided to install a bowspirit. First, we meassured everything both one, two and and least three more times to make sure that everything was correct. Not at all scary to make holes in the hull… To make the bowspirit as stable as possible and to make it a sight for soar eyes, we removed a part of the steel list in the bow.

When above was done, we drilled all holes, filled with “Sikaflex” (to make it water resistant) and then screwed everything in place.

Later that day, all white lines, the water line and the decorative line on the hull was painted with a one component enamel paint. Finally she is ready to be splashed.



Painting the hull

Spring is here and it is time to paint the hull of Albatrossen Inger. Last year, her old owner painted her with Tiger Coat, hoping that this would keep the barnacles away. But no, no, they came back and in numbers. So first up was to remove and make sure we created a proper foundation for some new paint.

First up, sand the hull, everything from the painted waterline and below.

On some spots, all paint came off and parts of the gelcoat became visible. As an experiment instead of painting new layers of epoxy primer, I used “Marine Expoxifiller” from Lefant. I applied thin layers over the visible gelcoat. When the epoxifiller had harden, I quickly sanded the small reparations and then it was time for the first layer of paint.

Since Carl-Johan (former owner) has worked hard to keep Inger as environmental friendly as possible, I off course try my best to keep her in the same good shape. After some research, we went for “Neptune Formula” in the colour black. This is a one-component paint that is free from copper. I have not tried this one before so lets see if this together with regular cleaning (whilst Inger is in sea) can keep the barnacles away.

A second layer was applied and we are now ready. Next up is to paint the painted-waterline and then rub and polish the rest of the hull. Then it is time for Inger to back into the sea.

A couple of small rigg upgrades

After we mounted the new furling system and genoa we thought it could be nice, by the looks but also to the new sail, to upgrade our turnbuckle’s protection. The best one we could find was from Seldén. Quite expensive but way worth it!

Since we are members of both Kryssarklubben and Svenska Sjöräddningssällskapet we want to make some advertising for these great organisations while we’re out on the see. A small but nice contribution to the rig was to put up the two flags!

 (… and the mandatory yearly sticker was of course mounted on the beam!)

Tiller – refurbished

 Our tiller to the rudder just received some well needed attention. During the winter we brought the tiller inside and painted it with approximately 10-12 layers of varnish. We finished it off with adding a new tiller extension.

New genoa and furling system

 Last summer our genoa (from 1970’s) got ripped apart. When we started looking into replacing the genoa we also thought it could be a good idea to install a furling system while we where at it. I contacted about 10 different sailmakers in Sweden: North Sails, Boding, Gransegel etc. But the one that we stuck with was Hamel sails from Karlshamn. They had the best prices (just a couple of 100 sek above Boding), sew everything in house in Sweden and could also deliver the sail within 2 months(!).
All the other sailmakers seemed to outsource there production to China and since it wasn’t cheaper and the delivery was about 4-6 months, the choice was easy to make. Hans Hamel (the CEO) was really professional and helpful and delivered the sail to Stockholm by himself. We chose a “regular” genoa made in dacron with a blue UV protection on the rim. We also bought a new furling system through Hamel sails. The system we chose was Furlex 50 S.

Pictures from the production in Karlshamn.

 Done and delivered!

 We chose to install the Furlex 50 S by ourselves. It wasn’t too hard, just read the manual a couple of times and measure everything twice before you start cutting ut the aluminum profile and the wire.

 The Furlex 50 S in place with the new genoa on the roll!

New brass bushings, ball valves etc.

Last year I (CJ) accidently broke off the handle to the starboard ball valve when I tried to open it after the winter. Before this years season we decided to not only change the broken ball valve, but to replace all the “plumming” in the boat. It felt really good to get this done and to freshen up the area below the cockpit but I’m glad that I don’t have to do this again in this boat, it was a hell of a job…

The original brass bushing. It was a hell of a job to remove the ball valve.

 Starboard ball valve without any handle (accidently broke it last season) and the wire to the log.

 The valve to the sea water.

 New bushing and ball valve for the sea water intake.

 We took the chance to freshen up the interior of the stern locker and painted it as well with topcoat.

The original log was removed since it didn’t work properly.

 The two screw holes didn’t fill any function since none of the screws where to be found…

 We used regular plastic padding to fill in the old whole, worked really well.

 We had to cut through the old brass bushings to be able to remove them.

 The strainer to the sea water bushing.

 The sea water bushing.

The new bushing and filter for the sea water hose.

The old bushings and ball valves had done their job and looked a bit tired.

The new bushings in place, a bit messy with all the Sikaflex but hopefully it will keep the inside of the boat dry!

On the bushings we’ve mounted new ball valves and new hoses as well. Double hose clamps where ofcourse used!

Everything all set! While we were at it we replaced both the sea water hose and the hose to the keelson as well.

The end result in the after area.

New engine mount

The old engine mount had been through enough and we needed to replace it. The wooden plate was almost rotten and the hight adjustment plate was crooked. We purchased the same type of mount and the replacement was really simple and easy.

New electrical system

During spring 2015 we went through and replace the boats electrical system. All the cables was replaced and routed trough plastic pipes towards the new electrical switch panel which we built in one of the lockers on starboard. The renovation included:
– Replacing existing lanterns
– Solar power (NAPS, 50 w)
– Regulator (Solarmare 10A)
– New radio (Promarine 1111BT)
– New electrical switch panel (
– New 12V socket
– Replacing all electrical cables (with the right dimensions)
– New deck bushing for the top lantern
– New main fuse (Skyllemarks)
– New main switch

Hull renovation – 4 layers of epoxy

 First off we blasted the hull with dry ice right after the boat was on the port once again. Every layer of old paint was removed until we reached the original layer of gelcoat. Bad repairs was exposed and some parts of the hull had som miner wholes from “böldpest”. After letting the boat dry for the whole winter we started off with cleaning the whole hull with T-röd. Then we used epoxy putty wherever it was needed. The biggest repairs was made at the front of the keel and on both sides of the rudder. After letting it dry for 2 days we sanded the repairs and then it was time to start with the epoxy paint!

 We painted the boat with four layers of epoxy, starting with white and then black (white – black – white – black). This was to make sure that the whole hull was covered with each layer of paint properly. Between each layer we should probably have sanded the hull to make the surface as smooth as possible, but unfortunately we didn’t have enough time to do this before the boat had to go back to the sea.

 After the painting was done we washed, rubbed and waxed the hull sides to bring back the original yellow color.

The final step was to paint the white line separating the hull sides from to hull!

New cushions

One of the first projects we did was to create and sew new cushions. We chose a fabric called “Dralon” at Stoff & Stil wich was water repellent and anit-mildew treated. We chose another fabric to the bottom parts of the cushions which breathe more.

 To create the cushions we bought regular mattresses from Jysk (12 cm thick). We used the old mattrasses to create paper patterns. We nailed the patterns on to the new mattrasses and used a bread knife to cut through the foam.

 Almost done!